Craft Beer World by Mark Dredge

Apart from actually drinking the stuff, the next best thing is reading about beer. Which brings me to this worthy little effort. My apologies for not getting round to reviewing it sooner, but I have been using it as a doorstop. Had I known its contents, I would have no doubt got round to it much quicker. But let’s cut to the chase; what’s it like?

This is a 208 page guide to the best that the craft beer world has to offer. Written by the annoyingly smart Mr Dredge, it’s along the lines of “beers to try before you die”. 350 of them to be precise. Beers are broken down, sensibly, into styles and each one then gets a picture and a little write up. This being a craft beer book, the beers circle the world from England to Japan.

Now, as I always say, half the fun of these books is seeing what beers people have chosen; as you can’t please all the people etc. Crate Brewery Lager makes into the Pilsner section even though it’s not a Pilsner. And Fullers Bengal Lancer as one of the best English Pale Ale/IPA examples? I mean, really? Perhaps he’d had a long lunch.

That being said, I think this book is squarely aimed at people starting out on their journey into the craft beer world. And Mark does say it’s about celebrating the new, rather than rehashing classic beers that have been featured many times before. So maybe there is a place for Bengal Lancer after all. Just not on my shelf.

As you might expect, the text is well-written and entertaining as well as being educational. There are sections on how beer is made, the world of hops, cooking with beer and the flavours and off-flavours of beer. Naturally with such a title, he has to have a go at defining “craft” and does well in emphasising it’s more of an idea than a dictionary definition.

I was also rather taken with his notion that behind every beer there is a story and this book is here to tell those stories. Something it does rather well, I think. 

Craft Beer World is published by Dog'n'Bone at £16.99

The Dutton

While we’re on a nostalgic kick, it’s an opportune moment to reflect on the loss of the Dutton Hotel. News that this icon of the Manchester pub scene had closed reached me last month and it was sad, if not wholly unexpected, tidings. Situated on Park St, behind the MEN Arena, this small street-corner boozer was a step back in time and, along with the Jolly Angler, represented a link to Manchester’s industrial past.

But the heyday of places such as the Dutton was a long time ago and each increasing year brought even less trade. I was surprised to find it still open on my last visit there three years ago as I imagined that its small, but loyal, pool of hardcore regulars would have dried up. These were crucial to the survival of the pub as there was virtually no passing trade and little but curiosity to tempt the casual visitor.

I first came across it thanks to the Good Beer Guide which it used to feature in on and off for many years. It was a Hydes pub and was famous for its anvils (the symbol of Hydes) and its blowlamps collection. It was also famous for its lock-ins and sessions would run into the wee small hours. Tales of prison officers from the nearby Strangeways popping in were legion and it even had its 15 minutes of fame during the 1990 riot when the media used it as an unofficial base.

Hydes purchased the pub in 1920, so it’s fallen short of its centenary but it’s had a good innings and goes into the history books with fond memories.

The Racecourse

The Racecourse Hotel on Littleton Road, Salford, is a piece of pub-going history that we look set to lose. It’s certainly a mammoth pub, of a scale that you simply don’t get these days. Built in 1930 by Salford brewers Grove & Whitnall to fund demand by the nearby racecourse (which closed in 1963) it features a myriad of rooms and an imposing central bar.

Recently CAMRA members were invited to tour the premises and see the areas usually off-limits to the public. These include the two large cellars that aren’t even connected and odd historical hangovers such as the jockey’s room complete with original shelving. It would need a lot of effort (and money) to bring it up to scratch, but the function room upstairs is one asset that could be exploited.

Owners Oakwell Brewery are set to call time at the end of the month and although there’s a chance of a new buyer stepping in, that would mean a major facelift. Anyone interested in pub history (and who isn’t) should try and get along to see this gem of a pub.

And unlike most pubs in the area, the Racecourse does offer real ale: with Bitter at a very reasonable £1.90 a pint. 

Saturday & Sunday in London

Saturday dawned bright and sunny. Well, overcast and a little drizzly, but in our hearts it was sunny. A trip on the river, a trip on the cable car, a little culture amongst the beer, but, as Groucho Marx said:”You can lead a whore to culture, but you can’t make her think.” So with some CAMRA members getting the shakes and needing a drink, we headed off for our first stop: Kernel brewery.

Nestled in the heart of Bermondsey, they have a smart setup which has had a small change since my last visit. Sensibly they have split the bar area into on-sales and off-sales to try and minimise queuing. Lovely portions of Table Beer, Sour and Pale Ale were consumed here. Luckily it wasn’t far to Partizan which is easily reached by following the contour of the railway arches. Here the sun peaked through and allowed al fresco tastings of both their Saison beers and their Citra offering.

The enticing environs of Craft Islington beckoned next before a diversion to the Union Tavern on Woodfield Road. This is a new convert to the craft beer scene and was met with mixed results. The cask choice was atypical London, i.e. unbalanced with nothing pale in sight. The reports from people who did try it weren’t favourable. The keg range (which I stuck to) was much better in terms of choice and, it appears, quality.

It was a parting of the ways for some here, but the official tour continued with a tour of the posh area around Belgravia. First stop was the Grenadier on Wilton Row. Built in 1720 as the Officers Mess for the First Royal Regiment of Foot Guards, this beautiful little boozer was first licensed in 1818 as the Guardsman Public House. It’s had its fair share of celebrity clientele over the years: the Duke of Wellington, King George IV. And it’s where Madonna developed her liking for Taylor Landlord.

There’s a good crawl to be had amongst the mews as you admire the Bentleys and Jensen Interceptors along the way. The Nags Head on Kinnerton St is another well-known London landmark. Sprawled over three small floors, its eclectic nature perfectly mirrors its famously eccentric landlord. The use of mobile phones is strictly forbidden and should you forget to hang your coat up, you will be politely asked to do so. The lowest bar-with suitably cut down bar stools-you’ll ever see is worth the visit alone. 

Our last official stop was the Grade 11-listed Star Tavern. Built in 1848, this Fullers single-room pub has featured in the Good Beer Guide since the first edition and was sensitively refurbished in 2008. It now offers guest beers, JHB in this case. It was pleasingly busy in the way most pubs were on a Saturday night, once upon a time. Not wishing to miss the last tube, it was time for a last hurrah in the Queens where Portobello American Pale proved a tasty nightcap.

Sunday dawned and there were a few jaded palates waiting to be refreshed. Luckily, although London doesn’t excel at late drinking, pre-noon drinking (sans Wetherspoon) can be had courtesy of the market pub. Hence we found ourselves in the Exmouth Arms or rather sat outside for a taste of Outlaw Low Life. This 2.8% golden (not really) ale was theoretically a good pick-me-up, but the dry-hopping didn’t really come through and it was a no-contest in voting the powerfully hopped Rogue Yellow Snow the winner.

It’s a tradition to finish Sunday drinking in Craft in Leather Lane and so with Mr & Mrs T joining us once more, we started work on demolishing the like of Crouch Vale Citra and Magic Rock High Wire. A dash to St Pancras brought us to Sourced Kitchen. This high quality deli specialises in all things local, including the London beers we supped on the way home.

Pressure Drop is a brand spanking new nanobrewery based in the flourishing outreaches of Hackney. I tried their Amarillo & Topaz which at 3.8% was light and refreshing and didn’t suffer from the common problems with low-strength bottle-conditioned beers. One to watch.

So ended another foray into the strange land that is called London. No doubt we will be back soon. 

Friday in London

A wise man once said that trying to herd CAMRA members was like trying to herd cats. However, that was the mission as we attempted to navigate the sometimes-sunny streets of London. First stop had to be the Euston Tap where Mallinsons (sparkler by request) was enjoyed al fresco. A quick romp took us up to the Parcel Yard at Kings Cross station. This modern behemoth is a warren of drinking spaces and offers the full range of Fullers beers. Although, on this occasion, it was Oakham JHB that tickled the fancy.

Just round the corner from our hotel was our base of operation for the weekend: the Queens Head on Acton Street. This late Georgian side-street boozer has a single bar with benches outside. It’s a cracking London boozer with a relaxed vibe. And the beer isn’t bad, either. Usually local (ish), there is also real cider and a good bottled beer range. Further good news lies in the presence of a bus stop just across the street. The bus from here quickly took us to our next destination: Craft.

Now Craft doesn’t, or shouldn’t, need any introduction. This Leather Lane hostelry has been at the forefront of the craft beer movement since its conversion from its pedestrian predecessor, the Clock House. And with 16 handpumps, the real ale certainly isn’t neglected and it is one of the few places in London that you can always guarantee finding something for all palates.

The only black mark against them is their continued hostility to the sparkler. This is presumably based on the back to basics approach to craft beer. However, there is some irony in the über cool craft hipsters sharing a viewpoint held by CAMRA dinosaurs who, for eons, have been fighting to preserve the tradition of warm, flat beer.

But, back to the beer. Being no numpty and obeying rule 51 (when you see it, have it) I dived straight for Magic Rock Curious. Some less curious (geddit) minded amateurs were dazzled by the allure of Crouch Vale Apollo and were rewarded with a diacetyl bomb of a dumper. Obviously one beer here is never enough, so there was plenty of time to make amends. Although, strangely, no one was tempted by the kegged Pizza Port Skid Mark Brown; and they say real ale has silly names.

The Gunmakers is another must stop on the Clerkenwell circuit and with the addition of two extra pumps, now has seven cask beers on offer. And whilst the place itself is great, it’s commitment to LocAle (always a risky move) meant that, on this occasion, the bar was lacking in variety and heavily leaning towards the plain brown side. The Portobello Star was found particularly guilty of this offence.

No such problem at the Fox & Anchor. This is a beautifully restored Smithfield pub that oozes quality. The only problem here is that the bar staff struggle to pour a pint. And they have the increasingly common dimpled mug as the default option. However, when the Caveman Citra arrived, it was worth the wait. It’s only a short walk to the Old Red Cow round the corner which was that busy we had to stand outside for most of the time.

This is another great market pub and there were several comings and goings here. Stopwatch Sid called time on himself and Tandleman was joined by his infinitely better, but don’t make her cross, other half, Mrs T. Despite being fresh and surrounded by drunks-I hate that-she gamely accompanied us to the Lamb at Leadenhall before whisking Mr T home for his slippers and hot chocolate. The Lamb is a fantastic historical boozer, but the beer, it has to be said, is somewhat lacklustre.

With only the likes of the Don, Eddie the, eager, legal beagle, the Manx Minx and their entourage and, of course, Jack & Jill still left, we made a beeline for the curry house. Chettinad came highly recommended and didn’t disappoint. Forget your dumbed down Masala dishes etc. This is the real deal: authentic south Indian cuisine and was a fitting end to our first day in London. 

Breakfast Beer Tasting: London Fields Unfiltered Lager

We’re sticking with the London connection today with another beer from London Fields. This time, though, it’s lager. But put that lynching rope away, it’s proper, unfiltered lager. See, in 2013, even CAMRA types can embrace the modern British lager.  

It’s 330ml and comes in at 4.3%. It was lively in the pour and settled to be hazy orange with a large, fluffy white head. The aroma was slightly herbal-grassy with a touch of malt. The mouthfeel was quite soft with a good malt backbone, a little bittersweet initially and then a surprising astringent finish.

Tyson says: I enjoyed this. It’s  not bad at all. Quite well balanced, but enough bitterness in the finish to tempt you to have another.

Return of the Macc Lads

Having followed the yellow brick road to Stockport last week, the logical next step was to go one stop further on the train and explore Macclesfield. Well, ok, there was nothing logical about it, engineering works had put paid to our original destination and the planning committee’s denouement was Macclesfield. After all, we had enjoyed a good afternoon there nearly a year ago. But would history repeat itself?

First stop had to be the Waters Green near to the station. It keeps funny hours (closes at 3 on Sat) but has been consistent over the years in serving a well kept pint. Today was no different with Allgates California and Oakham Inferno proving excellent choices. A quick trip over to the other side of the railway tracks brought us to another long-standing Good Beer Guide entry: the Baths Hotel.

However, things are afoot here. It’s undergoing a makeover and is now firmly in the contemporary camp with wooden flooring and large screen televisions. Whilst it’s always a shame to see a pub knocked about, if it does give it a new lease of life and bring the punters in, all good and well. The most important thing is that it’s still a freehouse, although you’ll always find local brewery 
Storm on the bar.

Next up was the Wharf on Brook St. This is another Macc favourite that offers a pleasant little drinking area round the back. Last time we called, the Marble had just ran out, but this time there was no such problem and we were soon sat enjoying a rare al fresco pint. It was down the side streets and backstreets, making sure we didn’t lose Uncle Albert on the way, to our next port of call, the Macc.

The Macc was once a moribund Holts pub before the people behind Manchester’s Knott took it under their wing. Again it now has a pleasant, contemporary feel and has blossomed with the introduction of a wide range of cask and keg beers. Pictish Apollo was tried here before a breakaway faction made for the fish and chip shop across the street. Here the fish was adjudged to be more likely Catfish than Cod.

A new one for us all was the Park Tavern. This is owned by the Bollington brewery who have furnished it comfortably, but have maintained a traditional layout with the bar on the right as you walk in. There’s a good selection of their own beers-all in good order-plus the odd guest beer/cider. But time and beer wait for no man, so it was a stroll into town for our final stop, the Treacle Tap.

The TT is yet another Macc favourite. Basically a narrow one-roomed bar, anyone familiar with the Pi chain will recognise the format. Very much at the heart of things, it’s the kind of bar that Bury town centre could do with. Although, could the Yates wine lodge crew handle it? Anyway, there was something of a split here, with some opting for a finale of 7% Stout.

Except, of course, it wasn’t the finale. We couldn’t come to Macc without making a detour to the historic Castle on Church St. This is a real cracker, splendidly described here. It was sad to see such a gem completely empty on a Saturday night, although the Merlin Avalon we had was perfectly fine.

It was most definitely train time by now and then, with Don Ricardo crying off in more need of curry than further beer; it was left to the rump to make the pilgrimage to Port Street Beer House for some Brodies Kiwi and Oakham Scarlet Macaw.

The Macclesfield triangle, as it’s known, has plenty of good pubs on offer and, at only 20 minutes from Manchester, is ideally placed for a crawl. And, if you’re lucky, the conductor won’t bother you on the journey.