I discovered I wasn’t a fan of Krusovice beers and that’s probably explains why I didn’t rate their Beograd outlet. On the other hand, I did enjoy Ferdinanda and their beers. All I can say about U Rudolfina is that it was dirty. Not only cleaner, but immeasurably better was the U Bulovky Richter brewpub. This had some good beers and the brews at Klasterni pivovar Strahov weren’t bad either. I really enjoyed the monastery setting of Klasterni senk and the Klaster light was quite refreshing.
While I don’t agree with Gazza on the delights of the Prvni Pivni Tramway, I do concur with his assessment of Pivovarský Dům. This really was excellent. Very smart, non-smoking, and with menus in English and Russian. Some good looking food as well, although once again, sadly, I didn’t get a chance to try any. Beer wise: the Bock was terrible, the Coffee was more like Nescafe and the Banana tasted like those old banana pop drinks you use to get before all the additives were banned. On the plus side, the Dark was good and the Pale and Wheat were both excellent. And let’s not forget the nettle beer. As can be seen this was a lovely shade of green-urine was mentioned, but if my pee was that colour I would be very worried. Anyway, I approached it rather warily as the aroma wasn’t giving anything away. However, it turned out to be quite moreish with a nice dry finish. For someone who has managed to drink a whole pint of JW Lees before now, it wasn’t any problem at all. Even their weird champagne beer with muscat grape extract proved quite tasty.
Just to show I can also rough it with the spit-and-sawdust Camra brigade, an honourable mention should go to U Sadu. This was a great boozer with decent Weizenbier and communist memorabilia adorning the walls. Oh, and it kept real drinking hours-an impressive 0800-0400. County Life proved an excellent veggie haunt with extra strength roast garlic soup a particular delight. Whilst Kogo proved an excellent source of Italian cuisine. Entertainment wise, Club Reduta lived up to its reputation as Prague’s premier jazz spot-I can see why Vaclav Havel took Bill Clinton here.
There’s a lot of Baroque to be seen in Prague and I was particularly impressed with the Church of St Nicholas. You can’t go to Prague without paying homage to Kafka and I clocked as many references as possible, including his sister’s house at 22 Golden Lane where he stayed for a short time. He’s actually buried in the New Jewish Cemetery, but of far more interest was the Old Jewish Cemetery with the impressive Klausen Synagogue at its entrance. Trawling round these cultural attractions I stumbled across some excellent beer shops in the vicinity whose cheap delights somehow made their way into my homeward bound luggage. Although after lugging two heavy bags home on a warm Sunday afternoon I did begin to question the wisdom of bringing back so much beer.
Prague-a mixed bag, but like anywhere it’s what you make of it. I would recommend it, but just don’t leave your jacket in your hotel room.