Really it’s a month or so too early to visit Munich. Ideally, you want the sunshine and their legendary beer gardens. But it is legal to sit inside a Munich pub and, without the lure of al fresco drinking to distract us, more ground was covered. In fact, all the desired stops were ticked off, save for Tegernsee which is best saved for summer.
Transport is great; with tickets that take in the underground, the overground, buses and trams and all available cheaply for groups of up to 6 people. Then there is walking, which is a great way to see some of the impressive sights and history of the city. And it’s also compulsory when out on the piss with Eddie, the eager, legal beagle.
Unfortunately, and surprisingly, the Braustuberl zum Spaten-the Spaten brewery tap was closed and up for lease, and the Spatenhaus an der Oper on Residenzstraße, flatly refused to admit us unless we were dining. Which, of course, being English we weren’t. But apart from that, we didn’t have any problems.
The Hofbräuhaus has to be visited if you’re a Munich virgin and having taken Don Ricardo there, we all awaited his verdict with baited breath. Carefully mulling his Dunkel over, he gave his measured judgement: “it’s shite”. So another satisfied customer there.
Far better is Wirtshaus Ayingers which sits in the shadow of the Hofbräuhaus, directly opposite. They have a good range of draught Ayinger beers and the place has a modern, chilled-out vibe. We managed to see the locals off in here until we were gently reminded that even Germans have homes to go to.
I can’t say I’m struck by the Hacker Pschorr interpretation of Helles. A little sharp for my palate and their prices are at the top end, even for Munich. However, they do have some excellent pubs. The Hackerhaus is an olde-worlde sprawling mass of wood panelled rooms; while Der Pschorr, off the Viktualienmarkt, is modern and bustling.